Ford Cortina - Ever seen a slow one?

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Topics - CortinaD

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The Showroom / Collingwood cortina
« on: September 03, 2008, 03:13:01 PM »
Spotted this thing the other day. Probably hard to tell but it had a list of all the captains painted on the side of the car and the year they were captains.


General Chat / motorcycle number plates
« on: May 31, 2008, 01:07:29 PM »
anyone know where to get some made?

Cortinas in the Media / BankJob movie 2008 with Turkish
« on: April 16, 2008, 04:17:19 PM »
TC looking thing in the background early on when he is at his car business.

Cortinas in the Media / MarkZE in Zoom mag this month
« on: April 14, 2008, 08:00:29 PM »

Off topic / Autronic SM4 Software update 26x
« on: March 22, 2008, 01:24:58 PM »

If you have a SM4 there is a new version of the application.

General Chat / - nice site
« on: February 14, 2008, 01:02:30 PM »
Dunno if this is a repost but check it out.

Its the internet moview database for cars, has screen shots & everything!!!!

The Showroom / Summernats
« on: January 09, 2008, 09:49:14 PM »

about 54seconds in, who is it?

Its finally arrived and its a sweet bit of kit. Thanks to Dwayne @ TCE.

Third dude I met in my life that has the same name as me!

Heres the pics of my SFI approved flex plate & converter.

General Chat / Should Ford bring back the Cortina branding?
« on: November 24, 2007, 11:07:51 AM »
Considering our environmental issues, do you think that Ford should move away from the large Falcon's and import/or locally build a smaller family mover with a few engine options?

Personally I think they should bring the name back and start to make responsible sized cars with more economical fuel efficient engines.

Technical/Mechanical - sponsored by / Broken rear bracing
« on: October 13, 2007, 08:05:28 PM »
This happened to anyone else?

the car has only been driven 10 times or so with > 500nm, dunno if its a fault in manufacture or what but its pretty ghey

General Chat / RIP Dave Adams - Motorshop Cortina
« on: September 05, 2007, 11:46:28 AM »

Picture above from a few years ago. Death notices from

Dave's legacy will live on in a few of our cars as a few of us have had work done from him in the past. Was a good site to see his car at the drags without fail every month when the track was running. Was sad to hear he wasnt doing well a few years ago.

ADAMS, David.
The Advertiser,01 September 2007

Died August 28, 2007 at Modbury Hospital.
Loving husband to wife Lorraine. Father to Debby, Chantal and Christopher.
Father-in-law to Andrew Loving grandfather to Ethan and Adam.
Will be dearly missed. Gone too soon, walk slowly till I catch up with you.
Rest now, no more suffering.`The Lord is my Shepherd.

ADAMS, David.
Good friend of Maria, Gino, Anna and Nathan. You will greatly missed and will forever be in our hearts. Deepest sympathy to Lorraine and family.

ADAMS, Dave.
Thank you for teaching me and helping me to be the person Ive become. You were my mate. Always remember the good times. Andy
Gone, but not forgotten. I will always think of the good times, the laughs we shared, the crazy stuff we did.

His funeral is today for anyone who wants to make it

are respectfully in formed that his Funeral Service
will be conducted in the Folland Chapel, Enfield Memorial Park,
at 1.45 p.m. on WEDNESDAY, September 5, 2007.
Gillian Harm
8234 0506

DIY: Do It Yourself articles / TE Brake DIY
« on: August 22, 2007, 04:12:28 PM »
It was originally submitted to FAF by Bucster.

Click to see the original thread.

Hey all.
Thought this might be useful for anyone wanting to change their Disc rotors, brake pads, wheel bearings, seals etc.

Step #1.

Place the vehicle up on a suitable rest, jack stands etc. Do not recommend working of the jack as this is a dangerous habit waiting for an accident to happen.

Step #2.

Remove the wheel, undo the 2 bolts holding the brake caliper and remove caliper from disc rotor, take out the 4 bolts immediately visible on the hub and remove the bearing dust cap for access to the capsulated nut. Remove the split pin, then the capsulated nut and the main nut securing the assembly to the stub axle.

Step #3.

Using a large screwdriver or wedge separate the brake hub from the disc rotor.

Step #4.

Remove the old bearings, they come off in the hand and visually inspect the stub axle and hub for damage, scores, heat marks, etc.

Step #5.

Practice fit the new bearing in the old race ONLY if the initial inspection showed no problems with the inner race.
This inner race was still in good condition so there was no need to replace it.

Step #6.

Pack the bearing with a suitable high temperature wheel bearing grease.
This is done by forcing the grease through the bearing from the side with the slot around the bearing face. Place the grease in the palm of your hand and drag the bearing through it.

When done correctly grease will be visible protruding through the bearing rollers all the way around the bearing

Step #7.

Sit the bearing back into the race, apply some grease around the bearing lip ready for the bearing seal.

Gently tap the seal into the hub until its home.

Now turn the hub over to access the other side.

Step #8.

Pack the small bearing with grease exactly the same way as the larger bearing. Place into the bearing race.

Step #9.

While your hands are still all greasy, put some onto the stub axle.

Step #10.
Reassemble the hub and new disc rotor.

Always use new bolts and washers supplied with most kits.

Loctite is the safest way to keep them in place, we used Loctite 262 threadlocker.

Ensure the hub and disc rotor seated correctly with no gaps on the mating surfaces.

Step #11.

Lift the complete assembly, being carefully not to drop the bearing out, ready to replace back onto the stub axle.

Step #12.

Replace the washer and the nut and tighten firmly to seat the bearings.

Step #13.

Loosen the nut back off 1 turn, spin the disc a couple of times and retighten the nut using light pressure only.

Step #14.

Replace the capsulated nut and the split pin securing the assembly.

Apply grease into the bearing cap, towards the bottom, it doesnt need to be full.

Step #15.

Wipe the disc rotor clean to get rid of the surface protectant, we used some petrol on a rag to accomplish this task.

Change the brake pads. Easiest way is to use this nifty tool to squeeze the piston back into the caliper. Notice we used the old pad to rest the tool and apply even pressure. All pads are the same, so u cant mix them up. Place the new pads in the brake caliper ensuring they seat correctly in the locater lugs.

If you used the nifty brake tool there should be enough gap to replace the caliper directly onto the rotor.

Step #16.

Relace the caliper, insert and tighten the 2 bolts holding the caliper. Use some mig wire pushed through the holes in the 2 bolts to tie the assembly securely.

Step #17.
Tighten the 4 bolts on the hub securely NOW....

One side completed, do exactly the same for the opposite side.

Hope this Howto helped somebody. its an easy job to complete and can be done by most competent persons.


The Showroom / Bucsters latest Cortina project
« on: August 22, 2007, 04:07:42 PM »
This is my latest cortina project.
A 79 Te Cortina, used to belong to one of our club members. NOS200.
The idea is to shoehorn the toyota 4litre V8 into the engine bay, with the stock auto, ecu etc and work from there.
To read the complete story as it happens click below.

The Cortina.
NOS200's Corty came nicely equipped with a stronger diff, bigger brakes and a few goodies to sell, which will help buy some of the parts still required to complete this project.

The Motor.
I had been looking for a front cut for a while, the 1uzfe motor is very strong and has a lot of potential for under $1000.
Unfortunately the motor is the cheapest part of this conversion.
Hence the front cut, from it i will use the auto, wiring, igniters, ecu, etc.

The Importer.
Recently i came across a new advert for motors and front cuts, INSERT DODGY BUSINESS NAME HERE, located in the industrial section of 17 Mile Rocks, Brisbane, Qld. Actually the advert still runs in the trading post.
Advertised was Ls400/Sc400 half cuts, from $1950

Week #1.
The Drama starts.
I phoned the next day and asked for a 1uzfe from a Sc400, Auto, Wiring, Ecu, also to make sure the sump had to be at the rear.
Got a phonecall the next day confirming that one was available, but it was $2200, later that day i placed a $200 deposit and said i would pay the rest when i picked it up. this was a thursday, i explained i would pay the remaining in the following week once i had organised transport. No Problem.
On the saturday as i started driving from Gladstone to hervey bay, approx 330km. I received a phonecall from Nick about the front cut, he said they were going to pick it up that day, and wanted to know when i wanted it.
Reception was a bit static so roughly i think he said something along those lines.
Within 10mins, Nick's boss phones, saying he wants the rest of the money now, cause the $200 deposit wasn't enough. Told him i was miles from anywhere and i was good for the money on Monday. In the end, he was ok with that...sorta

Week #2.
The Monday afternoon, paid for the front cut, talked to Nick, if he was going to remove the motor etc from the front cut.

Tuesday morning i get a phone call, the motor has a mid sump, i said thats from a crown, i paid for a soarer cut. Nick said he would get the correct front cut and give me a call back.
When i was researching about the 1uzfe i used several forums as information and how to's. I learned a lot about the various forms and vehicles with the 1uzfe as factory equipment. The soarer sc400 has the rear mount sump as required in a cortina, the standard auto uses the same Ecu as the motor, the crown and ls400 use separate computers for the motor/gearbox. I figure on getting my head around the wiring for 1 Ecu will be bad without having 2 to deal with.

Wednesday, im getting concerned cause i didnt hear from Nick, so i phoned him.
Nick said, that he was just getting a rear sump for the motor.
I said no, i wasnt paying that price for a dirty old crown front cut, i can get one anywhere and i wanted the full sc400 front cut, by this time some people from soarer forums had contacted me in regards to spare parts which would be leftover from the front cut.
Thursday Nick confirms a 91 model uzz31 front cut was on its way. Infact his guys were going to pick it up that afternoon. Thursday night, i didnt phone Nick back, cause he had it sorted, lol. so i organised to move the front cut the following day.
Friday i phoned Nick, the crane truck is in the area, can he pick up the cut. Well the front cut hadnt arrived yet, but his guys were going to pick it up that afternoon, he was soo sorry for the stuff around.
So later that afternoon i phoned Nick back near closing time did the front cut arrive, well no but he was just going to drop it off where ever i wanted it. He offered to drop it Saturday if i needed it. Told him i didnt require it until the following week.

Week #3.
Mid December 06, xmas is close, not much happening until new year.

Month #1.
Car was delivered to S.L Race fabrications for sump, fuel tank and tailshaft mods.

X-mas / New Years, Cheers everyone.

Ok so i got a new job just afer x-mas, it takes me all over the globe and im not home much now, only 1 weekend a month. Theres not much time to work on the corty, so the project has slowed, not stopped totally just takes a lil longer to do stuff than first estimated.

But now the motor/gearbox combo is installed, new mounts fabricated and connected.
New 80L alloy drop tank and 1/2" fuel lines fitted, new brake booster installed on reduced mounted bracket, also fitted a bias valve to the rear brake lines for fitment later of disc brakes.

Currently working on another diff with disc brakes setup, so the Hilux diff and custom tailshaft is up for sale. The Hilux diff is approx 2" shorter each side had 31 spline axles, 4.11 gears and a full spool, tailshaft is custom fabricated for 7000rpm and 500Hp.
Total cost for the hilux diff purchase and conversion was $1800 plus another $600 for the tailshaft, total $2400. I'm after approx $1000 or nearest offer for both. This diff will allow deep dish offset wheels like Convo pros etc.

Back to the car, been waiting on a set of 275 20.20 tyres from a mate, but like most mate deals, im still waiting. Because of the BA rims i would of had to run custom wheel spacers with the hilux diff and this would off made rego almost impossible, legally. Thats the reason for the new tact towards a Eb series 2 Disc brake diff setup.
Have a couple of options next for the radiator and trans cooler, but more on that after the new diff is installed.


The Showroom / My 1980 Ford TE Cortina [Ghia] (May Build)
« on: August 22, 2007, 04:05:52 PM »
1980 Ford TE Cortina [Ghia] (May Build)

I purchased the car back in June 1997. It was fate! I had sold my TC gemini on the Sunday morning and my dad said lets go to the caryard to see if they had any cortinas. No such luck, they were closed. Dad said lets have a look at the suzuki yard so it wasn't a wasted trip and believe it or not, the moment we walked in a bloke was handing over the keys to the cortina as a trade in.

When he left we had a look at the car, it was clean, had small amount of rust on the passenger mirror mount, interior clean, everything worked, just needed a new water pump.

We told him $750 he said $1000, we gave him our number and said if he wants it cash when he calls. He grabbed us before we got out of the lot and the car was mine for $750.

I drove it home and they arranged for the rego transfers on Monday. Dad and I did the waterpump on the Monday night and I was driving it around on Tuesday...

The car remained basically stock for the next year. In1998 I started the modifications. Firstly with a set of extractors and 2 1/4 exhaust system and a 350 holley. I blew a few diffs and then a motor. Rebuilt the motor and put all the same equipment in the car and after it was run in put it on the dyno for the first time - 105rwkw.

I decided that it would be time to get the car painted. I had it painted in the same colour, ford blue (artic blue) but added some blue and red pearl. Had the door locks removed and boot lock removed to complete the deal.

Decided to enter it in a couple of carshows with some of the cortina crazy car club members and had a blast, eventually boring of the cars setup I put a bigger cam in the car and a 465 holley and the car rattled off 115rwkw. Put an Auto on and a 600 holley and the car did 122rwkw. Drove that around for a while, put in a LSD that i got from a cortina crazy car club member and then lowered it :) Got defected for being too low then decided to turbo the car in 2001.

Since then its been off the road. I have driven it a few times and then got defected again so I have since left it.

As part of the turbo conversion I did the braided line, better auto, more gauges, wheels etc.

The cars configuration as it is now is:

ZL fairlane 250 xflow block 8.2:1 compression, loose tolerances for more oil slosh at less pressure (running mobil 1 5W50)
balanced, half grout/resin filled
ACL 27cc pistons with chrome moly rings.
stock polished and peened rods
ARP bolts & head studs
stock crank but knifeedged, polished and peened
running on avgas 100/130
Rollmaster double row timing chain
Rollmaster adjustable cam timing set
Custom alternator bracket
C1 alloy race head, ported polished (exhaust) and flowed.
very large valves
bronze valve guides
Crow Cams 6777 double springs
head machined to take kline stem seals to clear inner spring.
yella terra fully adjustable roller rockers
moly pushrods
Surecam 300duration/.540 lift cam, 114 lobe separation retarded 6 degrees to sit 1 advanced. wild cam, Phil is a machine!!
antipump up lifters
modified engine mounts to fit low mount turbo
mofified firewall to take inlet manifold
2x910 fuel pumps, 4litre surge tank -8 fuel lines.
Facet lifter pump
all braided line & speedflow fittings.
braided -10 fuel lines into surge tank and -8 supply and -8 return tto/from rail.
-4 teflon braid oil supply line, -10 teflon oil return line
-4 teflon line for boost gauge
-4 teflon line engine oil pressure gauge
-4 teflon line transmission pressure gauge
-8 braid for booster
-8 braided for oil cooler and remote oil filter
-8 braided for turbo water feed and return lines
-10 braid for oil/air seperator
-8 in & out fram efi fuel filter
-6 for trans cooler
Customised Xf distributor non signature chopper phased 18degrees back and with extra tooth welded inside
modified tp magna core (2 hall sensors) moved to suit, crow cams hardend gear
MSD 6A CDI ignition system
MSD blaster 2 coil
Bosch super sport 9mm leads & eagle seperators.
modified (milled flat) xf/zl alloy rocker cover & 3/8 bsp tapped in to take -10 an for oil/air fittings
Malpassi fuel regulator
AU 3 falcon gear reduction starter motor
aircon unit removed
all sound proofing removed
custom heat shields for turbo and exhaust manifold
heater box modifed to fit around manifold
heating/cooling vent circut inside removed
fan circut inside car built to give hot air to front window only.
accelerator pedal modifed (along with cable listed elsewhere) to give more travel for better resolution.
Custom 2.7 metre double teflon throttle cable (with XF end throttle body side, cortina pedal side)
Battery reallocated to left hand side of the boot, Engine bay modified to remove battery tray etc.
custom battery mounting with quickrelease handle.
Custom fuel tank with 2x-10 speedflow pickups added to rear. front pickup deleted but sender retained.
Custom blow off made from XF falcon EGR valve and 90mm alloy block. perforate inner ring to help cope with >20psi.
Hidden wiring, removed all the junk ford put in that wasn't used.
Car completely rewired to accomidate all extra features that comes with fuel injection, locking etc.
EB Multippoint Throttle body modified to take modifed cable. The inbuilt idle control valve gives antilag, launch control and other features. allows car to idle smooth between 850 & 900 even with the big cam.
Earls trans cooler
Earls oil cooler
Lokar -8 24" braided trans oil filler
Earls remote oil filter kit to take holden oil filter **shudders**
Custom paint job
removed door locks, boot locks & badges
Custom intercooler (painted black now), each inner tube welded to plate and bellmouthed!! 630x450x55mm
Valeo core. sjf silicone.
K&N filter
Custom 9L inlet manifold, bellmouthed and mated to head
Custom exhaust manifold
Custom 3" exhaust (AAA exhausts) , stainless front race magnium muffler and resinator.
Custom exhaust flange for 3" dump and 1.5" screamer pipe.
Custom traction control setup, wheelspeed setup using AU falcon abs sensor & chopper disk for front and custom chopper disk for driven wheel input.
custom brackets for wheelspeed/traction sensors
MAC 3 way valve for boost control, boost control is mapped to each gear. 10psi 1st gear, 16psi 2nd gear, 23psi 3rd gear.
Custom brake setup using 287mm XY falcon rotors & S4/5 Mazda 4spot calipers using custom upright adapter
5stud conversion to take 5x114.3 wheels
18x7.5 Lenso LS5 wheels 35P offset from TyrePower Adelaide
225/35/18" nankang tyre
16" R32 GTS-T wheels for drags
and sometimes R33 GTS-T wheels.
Modified standard radiator to 3core.
Modifed waterpump front snout to take falcon GT engine fan and accmodate thicker radiator
6xS5 Rx7 high impedance injectors flowed at 585ccm at 85% duty at 45psi sitting in modified XF rail.
arp head studs now to keep the head on the block > 15psi boost - currently running 23psi.
26 spline MV c4/c9 auto, keas full manual valve body, 2000 rpm hd stall convertor.
trans modified to take extra clutchs
kevlar bands, A servo
Modifed standard shifter to suit the C4, extended linkage and modded gates
1.06 a/r single entry garret rear housing on the s5 rx7 core. 10mm custom spacer to put P trim rear wheel in correct spot on housing. Super v front for now with standard Rx7 front cover customised with a 3" alloy snout machined up and pressed on. Internally ported and polished. larger wastegate button. modified mazda wastegate to preset boost to 5psi on my engine, it only made 1psi standard.
Aurora (industrial HD springs)
Monroe GT gas shockers
Nolathane eurothane bushes all round, rubber bushings on top of diff.
3.23 4 pinion LSD diff, xf falcon centre, new gearset all in original cortina housing. redrilled axles to take 5 stud.
Autronic SM4 engine management, 1.06 chip version.
2xSoundstream 10" subwoofers in custom ported enclosure
gold power distribution blocks inside car to distribute power for everything.
Rockford Fostgate DSM reference amp 2 channel - according to factory test sheet 25wrms @ 4ohms per channel, 264 wrms @ 2 ohms per channel
Pioneer 6" mids in doors
Jaycar tweeters
Panasonic double din deck - VZ303
Panasonic 8 disc CD stacker
Mk3 Supra electric seats on custom rails.
Autometer ultralite boost
Autometer ultralite oil pressure
Autometer ultralite air fuel
Autometer ultralite pressure gauge 0-400psi (transmission)
Autometer sportcomp tacho
custom shift light using 4x ultrabrite amber leds controlled by autronic to give shift time based on gear.
Door locks removed from inside of vehicle, EL falcon central locking button installed inside.
Boot lock button also added inside.
VDO electric fuel pressure into Autronic
Battery isolation switch
Boomerang Alpha 2000 car alarm
rerolled and rechromed bumper bars
35% tint all round.
restored crash pad replaced the weatherd & cracked one.

obligatory defect sticker on front window after 2 days of registration

234rwkw@14.5psi with the old engine management (Haltech F9 with no ignition control, no rollers etc)
270rwkw@19psi with the old engine management (Haltech F9 with no ignition control, no rollers etc)
On the 234rwkw run it had 808Nm of torque @ from 2000 going down to 550Nm @5200rpm @ the engine using 25% estimate of loss thru auto drivetrain.
On the 270rwkw run it had 937Nm of torque @ from 1863 going down to 670Nm @5500rpm @ the engine using 25% estimate of loss thru auto drivetrain.

power flat from 2000rpm to 5500rpm,

old na combo with 122rwkw, auto gave 14.1@96mph - shifting gears at 5800 to 6000rpm
old turbo combo with 155rwkw auto gave 13.01@98mph - doing 92mph at the 1000ft mark, car refused to pull from then on due to incorrectly sized rear housing. shifting gears at 3200rpm

goal with 270rwkw to 300rwkw is flat 11 at about 120mph on street tyres (hence the traction control) with a revlimit of 5200 for 1st and 2nd and whatever in 3rd.

See my gallery here.

All work done by me with help from some boys in the cortina club.

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