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Author Topic: TC/TD Steering Rack Bush  (Read 4915 times)

BigNorm

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TC/TD Steering Rack Bush
« on: June 13, 2014, 12:05:52 AM »

So you've got a knock in the front end when you go over a bump? sounds like its coming from the left? Chances are the left rack bush is up to shit. Every cortina will at some stage in it's life chop out the left hand steering rack bush.  Easy way to tell it needs replacement is by jacking the car up, hold the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock and shake. If there is play you will be able to see the up/down/left/right movement inside the left rack boot. Acceptable amount of play in the boot is zero.

You know the drill, this is for educational purposes only and to serve as a display. If you're unsure of what you're doing then dont do it.

Tools Needed
3/4 socket and bar and/or wheel brace.
sidecutters
22mm or 7/8 spanner
stilsons
drill with 3/16 bit
2 or 3 small flat blade screwdrivers
Hammer

Time Taken:
About an hour


Step 1:

Jack up the front, put stands in and take the left front wheel off.


This is where the rack bush hides, inside the end of the main housing where the rubber boot mounts on. If you wiggle the wheel and can see any movement here, the bush will need attention.


Step 2

Trun the steering wheel full lock to the left. While everything is still assembled, crack and loosen the tie rod lock nut now because its a prick to undo later. Remove the split pin from within the tie rod end nut. Crack the nut and undo it a couple of turns but not the whole way. Hit the stub axle(not anything else) with a hammer to break the seal for the tie rod end. Once the seal is broken you can then undo the tie rod end nut and remove the tie rod end from the tie rod. When you unscrew the tie rod end off, count exactly how many turns it takes to come off and write the number down - you'll need this when you put it back together. Then remove the locknut, undo the clamps on the rubber bot and take that off too.



Step 3:
 The locknut and ball joint are two nuts locked together on the thread with a small pin to further lock the assembly. Its important this never comes loose, if it does you're in for a bad time. Anyways, drill the 3/16" pin out, it is only about about 8mm long so you dont need to go too deep. Using stilsons crack and loosen the locknut away from the balljoint. Then using the stilsons undo the ball joint until it comes off. There is a small plastic saddle, washer and spring which will come out with it, dont lose these.







Step 5:

This next bit is so much easier with someone helping but can be done on your own. Turn the rack all the way to the right steering lock. Using a couple of small screwdrivers poke them into the rack outside of the bush and lever in. While your putting force levering the bush into the rack turn the steering wheel to move the rack to the left, this will feed the bush out of the rack housing. Thats the hard part done.









Step 6:

Grab the new bush, lather it up in grease. My personal choice is moly grease. Notice on the side of the bush there are 3 bits sticking out, these locate in holes in the end of the rack housing. Feed the bush along the rack and into the housing with the tabs facing out.






Step 7:

Screw the locknut back on. Insert the small spring into the hole, make sure the washer is on the plastic bush and fit that in.



Screw the ball joint onto the end of the rack. I stick a couple of drops of loctite onto the thread before i go. Carefully turn the ball joint nut slowly until the tie rod has enough load on it that it can support its own weight. Give it a poofteenth more of a turn to preload the spring, another drop of loctite on the locknut and roll the locknut back to lock the two nuts together. Do the locknut up as tight as your skinny little arms can go but make sure not to turn the balljoint nut, get a second pair of stilsons or vice grips if need be. Do not overtighten the ball joint nut or the plastic bush will break. Leave it too loose and there will be unwanted freeplay.


Step 8:
Grab your drill and drill a hole about 10mm deep between the two nuts. The original 3/16' pins havent been available as replacements for many years. I use a bolt and/or screw in the hole to lock the nuts again. I know this is not ideal but it works.



Step 9:

Put the rack boot back and clamp it up. Screw the tie rod end lock nut back on. Screw the tie rod  end back counting how many(the number you wrote down earlier) turns it goes back on. Fit it back to the stub axle, put the locknuty back on and fit a split pin. Put the wheel back on, take it off the stands and then very importantly get the car off to have a wheel alignment done. TADA!!!! You're done :D

« Last Edit: June 13, 2014, 12:38:25 AM by BigNorm »
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Tils

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Re: TC/TD Steering Rack Bush
« Reply #1 on: June 13, 2014, 06:01:49 PM »

Have you considered using a long allen head grub screw with loctite as a lock pin?

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COR10A

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Re: TC/TD Steering Rack Bush
« Reply #2 on: June 13, 2014, 07:21:49 PM »

Brilliant Big Norm,
My only question, where the hell did you get the new bush. Rare as rocking horse poo on this side of the country. Ill take 2 please.
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BigNorm

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Re: TC/TD Steering Rack Bush
« Reply #3 on: June 13, 2014, 11:17:11 PM »

the grub screw is a good idea but the only downside is a thread or at very least a hole would need to be cut into the rack before the two nuts are screwed onto the rack? finding the location could be tricky, or do they cut thier own thread?

COR10A - like everything cortina, they're rare everywhere. i'll have a look at what i've got but i reckon i can supply you 2.
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