Ford Cortina - little car with a big heart

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Author Topic: Engine  (Read 134 times)

foe

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Engine
« on: April 05, 2018, 05:49:10 AM »

Hey guys i got a mate who has got some brand new 250 c/f motor parts selling cheap, he was going to put them in his xd van but not happening. I was interested in buying them for my TF but was wondering if the cam was big enough and if it was a good combo to start with, its cheap enough, and i want a pretty quick N/A 250 mainly for cruising, and im not to mechanically minded, Just a heads up on what you,s think. He has a crow hyd cam 2224/224@.50 502/502 lift 600 holley, redline manifold, YT rollers, lifters, push rods plus heaps more all top end stuff, i can get it cheap, but is that cam ok or is a solid cam better with webers. Its sorta doing my head in reading online different engine builders opinions, i just want a strong n/a motor. Im leaning towards my mates stuff with 200 rods ect. But will that cam be ok, any thoughts would be appreiated thanks.
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winton

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Re: Engine
« Reply #1 on: April 06, 2018, 09:42:35 AM »

Hi Foe, don't bother with the 200 rods, ACL don't make the pistons to do it anymore and you will be lucky to find a set. Wouldn't worry about Webber's or a solid cam for cruising. I think the better hydraulic cam in the crow range is the 14650 230@.050 .522" lift. The cam you have listed is on the small side, but should suit you if you want a cruiser with a bit of go.
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foe

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Re: Engine
« Reply #2 on: April 07, 2018, 06:26:17 AM »

Thanks mate for the advice i thought the cam might be a bit small, and im putting a lot of effort in to this car i dont really want a mild motor or a turbo. This subject is probably getting a bit tied for most of you guys, but where i am there,s not a lot of advice or lovers of the old 250. I really want a motor that can do around 13,s give or take, but theres so many bloody ideas to get that number i dont know where to start, im thinking all my mates parts i said in the earlier post with a bigger cam, and head work. would any of you guys recommend a good bottom end to match. Sorry to blubber on fella,s but im in the dark here. Not  to many tractor motor lovers here, i think they will be in for a rude shock lol.
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winton

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Re: Engine
« Reply #3 on: April 07, 2018, 02:48:02 PM »

https://www.camtechcams.com.au/ford_6cyl_xflow_hyd.html
Link to some cams. Good start would be either the 528 510. For the bottom end You could probably get away with a balance and ARP conrod bolts, I think Windsor ones work.  0 deck height the block and use a c1 or c2 head, they have the smallest combustion chamber. I'd use the 84DA block as long as the max rpm stays under 6k it should be fine. Other than that and what I want to do next is use a 86DA block, use a el, ef crank and this https://www.spoolimports.com/spool-ford-200-conrods-and-cp-forged-pistons-suit-250-x-flow-block
With the head you want 1.85 intakes, you need to use clevo 2v and get them turned down. The exahust size is fine, it can be replaced with chev small block size 1.60
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foe

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Re: Engine
« Reply #4 on: April 07, 2018, 07:53:31 PM »

Mate i really appreciate your time it means a lot to me. As for the 250 block that was in the car when i bought it, i have no idea about a 84 DA block sorry mate, are there any numbers on the block.
If i sound like one of ya kids mate just let me know i dont mean to be a pain in the ass i dont know and the only way is to pesta poor buggers like you hehe. next time ya near jervis bay nsw the beers on me or any of you quiet corty lovers. 
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winton

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Re: Engine
« Reply #5 on: April 07, 2018, 08:06:53 PM »

It's the casting number on the block it's on the inlet manifold side. Head casting number is between 1 and 2 ports, early heads are blank. I do like beer
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foe

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Re: Engine
« Reply #6 on: April 08, 2018, 05:59:45 AM »

Cheers pal.
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foe

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Re: Engine
« Reply #7 on: April 08, 2018, 07:59:17 AM »

Mate i just checked the block and its a 76 DA so its a older block i guess. The old fella a bought it off told me it was originally a 4 cyl car and it had been regd for years as a 6 auto, i checked and the conversion had been done nicely. Is the 76 block ok to use or do i need to find a 86 thanks mate.
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winton

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Re: Engine
« Reply #8 on: April 08, 2018, 10:36:56 AM »

Ok to use. I think the 76DA has a rear main rope seal. I prefer the one piece seal but it's not an issue. Dose it have an alloy head?
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foe

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Re: Engine
« Reply #9 on: April 08, 2018, 01:06:56 PM »

Mate i couldnt see anything on it around the regions you said, the only thing i found was a 2, which was directly in front of the 2nd s plug from the front of motor, the 2 is about 15 mm in size.
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winton

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Re: Engine
« Reply #10 on: April 08, 2018, 01:45:33 PM »

Should be easy to tell if it's alloy or cast. The early block makes me think it may be a cast head
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foe

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Re: Engine
« Reply #11 on: April 08, 2018, 01:58:11 PM »

Is there any other way to tell its a alloy,  im not at the point of pulling it down yet. If it is a iron head is it ok just to buy a alloy head for it or would you recommend get hold of a latter motor & head, and again thanks for your time mate.
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winton

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Re: Engine
« Reply #12 on: April 08, 2018, 05:41:30 PM »

Alloy head will be silver unless it's been painted
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foe

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Re: Engine
« Reply #13 on: April 08, 2018, 07:58:36 PM »

Il clean it up and have a look,  the thing is that oily and dirty ya couldnt tell if it was gold plated the car had 180 kms on the clock and really is pretty clean but that motor and box looks like its been in every war known to man. Im not in a rush with running rear just could do with some help in direction
and thanks for your advice Winton really dude.
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