fordcortina.com.au
Tuning & Tech Center => Technical/Mechanical - sponsored by myrackbiz.com => Topic started by: Blake on September 17, 2007, 07:27:19 PM
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who has put a 4litre out of a ef to au in to a te cortina and i was wondering what had to be done with the sump as cross member is where it is, and engine and gearbox mounts as im taking brakes, hubs, loom, engine, gearbox and al the lil bits and pieces out of one of these models
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Hi Blake,
Well Iam in the process of doing a 4litre into a TE conversion. A few things need to be done.
1. Sump I grafted a 4litre sump with a crossflow sump. The 4litre is a little wider than the crossflow, its close but not close enough, It works out to be about 10mm difference or there abouts. This is for an EL motor, the AU is different in that it has an alloy sump.
2. Engine mounts I just used the crossflow ones, just had to open up the bolt holes a tad.
3. Gearbox mount just modified the crossflow one.
4. Starter motor is on the opposite side and will fowl the firewall/tunnel so you need to massage this a little. I just applied some heat and bashed it in a little.
5. If using a 5 speed you will need to cut some of the floor as the 5 speed sits back more.
Plus there will be other issues you will need to deal with Iam sure. If you want more details/pictures you can contact me via email at corty80@yahoo.com
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im just going to use the 4speed auto as mines already auto but i have the 2litre engine in mine at the moment, head gasket timing belt and camshaft all went at same time doing 120km/h nice big puff of smoke
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I think the oil filter on the 4L may foul the chassis rail, I have seen people use a littel short fitler with the same seal and thread, not sure exactly what it comes off though.
TE-Jet has done the conversion and has a turbo one running. I know he had to modify the firewall for the starter motor as Corty 80 said.
You may run into some clearance issues with the inlet manifold and the heater box too.
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you will always run in to some thing to slow you down but its always good having a panel beater as a good mate and a brother inlaw who was a mechanic so i have free labour
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Good one MarkZE,
yeah how could I forget about that one. The heaterbox is another big issue, most people that I have seen do this conversion and using the standard ef/el manifold have removed the heaterbox all together. I have done a fair bit of research into different heaterboxes and all of them are to big to fit where I wanted to put it. I wanted to place it behind the dash, but you have only got about 140mm to play with, and all the aftermarket heaters are larger. Also I couldn't put it behind the console either, so I ended up making my own heaterbox.
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I think the oil filter on the 4L may foul the chassis rail, I have seen people use a littel short fitler with the same seal and thread, not sure exactly what it comes off though.
the ryco number is Z89A. they're a common filter because they fit just about every jeep on the road.
another thing to consider if you're using a later model engine is what type of injection you're going to use. if you decide to use the factory injection on anything ED onwards you are going to come a cropper on the smartlock but as with everything there are ways around it.
i did a trial fit with the 4speed trans and it's sits pretty snugly in the tunnel. snug enough that you there are clearance problems with shifters and cooler pipes.
the rest is all time consuming, sorta straight forward modification.
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Good one MarkZE,
yeah how could I forget about that one. The heaterbox is another big issue, most people that I have seen do this conversion and using the standard ef/el manifold have removed the heaterbox all together. I have done a fair bit of research into different heaterboxes and all of them are to big to fit where I wanted to put it. I wanted to place it behind the dash, but you have only got about 140mm to play with, and all the aftermarket heaters are larger. Also I couldn't put it behind the console either, so I ended up making my own heaterbox.
The datsun 180B *cough cough* :roll: electric one fits nicely into a modified corty heater box.. As for the oil filter, the 2.0L ford pinto one screws straight on!..
* Yes the 2.0L cortina oil filter fits a 4.0L... :D
* Engine mounts are rather easy,
* sump is a pain in the butt!!! Custom is the best way.
* starter fitment isnt to bad if you own a 4lb mash hammer :wink:
* Heater box can be cut and chopped a little to make it all fir snuggly...
* Fuel rail will also cause some grief, as it rests against a STD heater box...
* Manifold - use the ef-el BBM, as the EB-ED one would cause the engine sit on the mounts, and fouls the inner guard.
The rest is just trial and error..
Blake - Check out the pics in my gallery, and if you need more info just ask...
TE JET
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thanks every one much appreciated might have more questions but if any one else can think of any thing write it down
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it's been done by a few different people here, everyone has done it independantly and different so if you get stuck i'm sure u'll get several solutions to the one problem.
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this is exactly what i needed,
im putting a el motor in mine so i really enjoyed reading this,
is it ok if i put questions on here if i get stuck or do i start a new thread?
have you finished it now mate?
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yeah fire away with whatever you want to know. it's been completed a few times now in different models.
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well ive changed my mind im now turboing mine
im starting to think it might be easier to use the original 250
i plan to run straight gas
the other motor i have is a el 4.0l i also have a spare eb motor
i want it to be quick
like be able to break traction easily but i dont need a 9 second car
it also has to get registered
what do you suggest?
also does anyone run the 4 speed out of the e series
i have 2 single rail gearboxes i dont know exactly what that means but one of them is for a 302 windsor ?
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Syko4D,
I recomend a manualised C4 if you are going turbo chagred. The beauty of the auto is that you can get a stall converter made up a bit looser than standard which basically gets rid of lag but then when you want to coast around town off boost it is nice and smooth.
A stock C4 with a manualised shift kit will serve you well with moderate power.
They bolt straight up to a 250 and there are bellhousing to suit the 4L from Dellow and torque power. You have to mess around a bit with the filler tube and I recomend a ratchet shifter which makes the linkage a breeze as you use the cable system that comes with the shifter.
If you turbo it the late alloy head 250's and the 4L are not far different the 4L has more room for exhjaust with the starter motor on the passenger side and the heads and inlet manifolds flow a bit better in standard form which saves a bit of development work. This is made up for by the extra work to make the 4L fit in the engine bay though.
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thanks alot for your help mate i really appreciate it
so do you recomend the 250 or 4.0l oh and are any parts interchangeable with these motors?
i like the c4 idea
does anyone run a turbo six on straight gas
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yeah john coliades runs a straight 6 dedicated lpg turbo but it's in a mustang.
which engine is recommended? million dollar question. how mechanically apt are ya? do u have the facilities? do you want the grief associated with an engine conversion or do you want something u can get in and drive soon?
btw, similar engines in many ways but pretty much nothing is interchangable
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yeah good point
mechanilly minded
but not electronically minded the computer things is what will throw me off
wich engine do you run do you have a buildup thing for your car mate
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Hey syko4d
Is the project a long term goal, or you have a shell waiting for a motor.
I think Te Jet has a turbo runs straight bullshit, :azza:
Get a plan first, right down a list of smaller tasks/jobs and break it down into time and cost.
Bucster
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i have the car but i want to do alot to it before i put the motor in
so a long term goal
but im just fooked if i can decide what motor to use
i don want a v8
turbo six is it although i just found what i think is a cheap supercharger
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The 4L and 250 have similar potential so which ever one works out to be the easiest for you is the way to go. The 4L is a bit different but some poeple like to be a bit old school and stick with good old pushrods. If you are only after moderate power then either will work fine.
No much is interchangeable. Pretty much the crank and conrods are the only things interchangeable. Only the late 87DA 250 interchanges cranks with th 4L, there are plenty of threads about using the EF fully counterweighted crank in the 250 block.
bellhousings, flex plates, timing gear cylinder heads, block, inlet and exhaust manifolds are all different. None of the manifolds even run the same bolt pattern. They do have the same bore and port spacings though so you can adapt manifolds.
One area where the 4L is better is they can use the Multi layer steel head gasket which came out on the AU engine and handle a lot of boost. The 250 needs the block or head o-ringed then an AQCL race series head gasket to handle decent boost.
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thanx for your help every1 i really appreciate it
ok im sticking with the 250
it will come out and will be fully rebuilt
if you run straight gas will you need a carby?
i know that sounds stupid but if you dont need the injectors on a efi then yeah i feel stupid asking but why else would you put a eb manifold (inlet) on?
i want to be able to break traction very easilyas im driving not a stand still
also can you get straight cuts for the 250?
thanx alot guys you blokes are awesome
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depends on what gas setup u use whether or not u still ant to run a carby. one alternative is using a efi throttle body setup ford or aftermarket otherwise a gas carb. if you're gonna boost it the throttle body is the way to go.
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efi intake with a impco 225 will let you have up to about 180kw
gas research setup around 350hp
theres talk on xfalcon at the moment about running dual impco 225's but noone has tested it yet
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180rwkw would be plenty
what times would that get roughly down the quarter
would a modified eb plenum be ok?