fordcortina.com.au
General Cortina => General Chat => Topic started by: 302Corty on December 07, 2015, 08:52:19 PM
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Hi all!
Boy am I glad I've found this place. I've dreamed of building my dream Cortina and finally some enthusiasts online that I can share that passion with.
I'm getting a couple of TE cortina's (one is a donor car) later this week and my plan for some time now has been to build a nice 302 to whack in there. Doesn't have to be the quickest thing - I just love the grumble of a V8 and love the corty shape.
I've got a quick question to start off in here - I've gone through some posts here and read a tonne on fordmods.....basically I'm looking at an E series into a corty....saw the awesome XR8 on here and wondering how easy that was to fit - given the EB's are a slightly different dimension would you recommend to look at an EB vs EL? I will look at a rebuild of the engine so can do a few things there but if it's easier to put in an EB or similar vs an EL/EF then I'll start there.
Cant be bothered with gas and although I love the old V8's I cringe at the thought of some engineer getting hung up on emissions after all that time so an injected motor is what I'll be popping in.
>Any tips on this sort of conversion would be great :) Alot of the threads online about this are somewhat outdated so I plan to document my build as I go to pass along to the next bloke who searches online too.
Hope to chat to more of you soon!
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Hey Welcome to Fc forums
I put EL Xr8 running gear in the Te.
Paid 800bux for motor box wiring loom and ecu and instrument cluster. Wasnt after any particular model just what was local for good price..
A decent conversion kits will make your life easier.
Something i should of done first is used a larger hi capacity sump. But priority was to get it all fitted and working correctly before adding go fast mods
Most cortys have room for a windsor, clearence is tight to the bonnet on efi model's but ample room around the motor. Big brakes on front 5 stud a must have they really don't stop that well stock. I went discs all round but thats not required for rego.
Also consider are you going to add Ac Power steer etc. Thats where it can get tricky or expensive.
Post sone pics when you get the cars back home
:beer
Bucster
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Just looking at the engine now, what sump did you use?
I've read something like this will fit.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Bronco-302-351-Cleveland-Engine-Oil-Pan-Sump-Pick-Up-1013EC-/361243160600?hash=item541bc53018:g:NtgAAOxy3NBSk-qW (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Bronco-302-351-Cleveland-Engine-Oil-Pan-Sump-Pick-Up-1013EC-/361243160600?hash=item541bc53018:g:NtgAAOxy3NBSk-qW)
Managed to pick up a 302 Fairlane for $800 so using the motor out of that.
Figured I'd ask someone who has actually done it :)
Just starting to map out everything before I start. Won't be keeping the engine stock but want to ensure everything "fits" before the mods come.
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Looking at that I think it will foul on the cross member unless the carby is sticking out the bonnet.
Did you buy the 2 cortys that were on Gumtree together, a black one white one in Sa?
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Fair enough - I've seen some on CRS that are custom for this conversion so might look at those a little closer when its time for the transplant.
I'm currently assessing the panels and deciding what parts from what car so I can get rid of the left overs and make some room :)
Wont be doing a 9" diff though so need to have a think about what I'll do here. I've spoken to my engineer who wants to ok all plans before they go ahead to begin the justification documentation for certifying it.
Will an EL XR6 diff fit into the current Cortina TE 6cyl housing?
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I was exaggerating about the carb sticking out the bonnet. It may just be deceiving because the rear area is normally deeper as in this picture(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/winton5/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-12-30-10-13-20.png) (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/winton5/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-12-30-10-13-20.png.html)
The el diff center will be 28 spline. Corty axles are 25spline. A diff guy should be able to sort it out though.
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Im a little lost at the moment on this project (tends to happen when I've never attempted a project like this). I am determined though to make this work.
Im trying to work out the EASIEST way to accommodate the 28 spline diff from the fairlane....Ive read that nissan r31 axels are ok, some people seem to have used both, some use the long one and then use an axel out of a falcon???
Anyone know the exact length of the TE cortina axels? I'd even consider having a set made if its just too hard to accommodate.
Also looking to to make it a 5 stud.
Bit of a newbie....any advice would be appreciated.
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I'd say that using one skyline and one falcon axle is about the same effort as using 2 skyline axles.
Having axles made will be esaier. Things are always easier when someone else dose it.
You could probably have falcon axles cut to length and re-splined. Apparently re-splining weakens the axle though.
You could also put a 25 spline lsd in using the corty axles and having the axles drilled to a falcon pattern. Don't use a center with a number 2 in the ratio something like 2.92 or 2.97 or you will be stuck with that ratio. The off set is different to all other gears unless that's what you want.
I've read that 25 spline cones can go in a 28 spline center but I've also read that they bind up if you do put them in. So weather it can be done I'm not sure.
What brakes do you want to use? There is about 15mm difference in off set from drum to disk on the axles.
You could probably put a disk on the Corty axle but you would have to space out the caliper bracket and use a spacer on the round protruding bit on the axle flange.
More lost now? I know I am.
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the skyline axle is spot on for length and the conversion is relatively simple. theres a write up on it somewhere which i'll try and track down. not sure what its like in the rest of the country but here in perth the only problem with that is finding a r31 diff. its easier to find a cortina diff.
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With the skyline axles the long axle is the same length but the short one is 10mm shorter. It still engages into the side gear or cone but only by about 12mm the overall length of the spline on the cone or side gear is about 22mm.
So if you just changed the retaining plates the axles with go straight in but the axle that has only engaged 12mm may give you issues or it may be fine depending on how you drive I guess. With all the 25 axles I've broken I don't want to risk it.
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Thanks for the great replies here....I've sorted out what I want, now it's just a matter of figuring out how to piece it together.
I think my best bet is to simply get some custom axles made. I called a few places, one bloke said to bring the corty axles in and they will respline to 28....then I've read that it weakens the axles. So if I want to run falcon 5 stud/discs on the rear, does anyone know the specs I should be giving for the axles to be made up?
I'm also picking up an EL XR8 diff....does this fit into the Corty housing?
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Don't know how the guy that said he can respline the Corty axles from 25 spline to 28 spline. 25 spline axles are smaller then 28 spline axles.
You can use the el lsd and gears in a te Corty housing.
Probably be easiest if you are going to get someone to make the axles to give them both diffs. Get them to weld the falcon ends on the Corty housing and shorten and respline the falcon axles to fit in the Corty housing, or have billet ones made. The brakes will bolt straight up too. Cost a lot more then doing it all yourself though.
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Yeah it was odd - I think I know the process he uses but in any case, called the guy to get it all done and he turned out to be a total douche. I see his name floating around various threads with mixed reviews. Won't mention his name but for someone trying to learn was very unfriendly. Basically laughed at my LSD XR8 diff choice. I'm building a cruiser and everyone wants to knock the build because it's not a race-car.
I'm not dumb when it comes to mechanics (My family has always been building cars or bikes when I was growing up) but I am not by any means an expert. There are a tonne of guys out there just like me who just need a bit of a hand with the technical components.
Anyway rant over -I have decided to get some custom axles made up. For an office worker like me it's hard to take it here and there to be re-drilled, lengths cut etc. Just works out easier to bite the bullet and pay for it custom then have it just arrive.
Onto the next area of concern. Pulling out the diff. Read mixed reviews with those saying you need a diff spreader and those saying they never used one. What is the experience here?
As stated I purchased an ELXr8 LSD diff centre which has been re-shimmed and has new bearings etc. Just need to work out the best plan of attack to get this in before I start. Any suggestions?
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You shouldn't need a diff spreader to get the center out, but you will need one to get it back in. I don't use a diff spreader to put it in. I put the center in the freezer over night and it should go in the housing easy. I have had to use a dead blow hammer and the cast cup thing that retains the center to knock one in befour but that center was extremely tight in that housing. This process can time consuming if you need to pull the center out a few times as it obviously has to be in the freeze for hours to freeze. Condensation is another issue. I let it thaw and rinse off with a hhydrocarbon. I use shellite, digger is the brand. I wash most parts with that when I assemble stuff. I use kero if the parts are going to sit for awhile.
You should be able to wrap something like a old seat belt around the center, put your feet on the axle tubes and yank on it. Put a bar through the seat belt so you have something to grip while you are doing it.
When you're fitting then pinion into the corty housing on the corty pinion there is a spacer between the pinion gear and the big bearing you will need to put this on the el pinion. The el pinion won't have one.
Ive done a few like this without a issue.
What offset did you get on your custom axles? Is it the same as a Corty or?
Nothing wrong with a Borg Warner diff. Lots of people will say go 9" but its overkill unless you're building a 9 second car. There are other centers available for the bw diff's that are better then the standard LSD to.
So many people are hung up on 9"'s and toploader's they're living in the past. Thats my opinion anyway.
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im interested in these bought axles. are they made to order or existing axles modified to suit?
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Thanks for the great info - the housing is out, just pulling bits and pieces out this weekend and will clean up the housing before starting the installation.
Norm the axles I was looking at are made long but they cut them to your required length. Not the greatest brand and I have heard mixed reviews but remember I'm building a cruiser and not a race car so I'm confident it will do the job for what I'm after. I have a mate who got axles through this mob.....even with the bad rep he has not had issues. (yes, they are speedmaster).
I have not yet ordered them as I'm not too confident on the lengths - if I get the same length but adding discs not sure on where the tyres will sit in relation to where they are now on the Corty - zilch experience in this area. What's everyone's experience?
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if you can dial in the axle length you it pretty much gives you the freedom to do whatever you like. in that situation i'd find a wheel and offset i liked(no such thing as too much dish) rather than something that "will do" and then have the diff made to suit. its not hard to shorten the tubes and weld on different ends. i'm about to get a diff shortened and i'll be having ef/el ends welded on. they're have a efficient rear disc arrangement, a tidy handbrake setup and it'll give me options to beef up the centre. if you work on dimensions like the worksheet i've attached it makes it alot easier.
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Not having any experience with after market axles I would think they are a multi fit axle from what you have described. So there would need cutting and machining to suit your application.
The round shoulder off the flange face that centers the brake may need machining depending on what brake you want to run. Different brakes have different size centering holes.
Adding a disk brake to the axle will add about 5mm each end but the overall length can be changed with the offset of the axle. Drums have a wider offset to disks. Assuming that the axles you are planning on using have a wider offset so they can be used with a drum or disk, the bearing seat could be machined down pushing the axle deeper into the housing giving a smaller offset. But the axles may already have the smaller offset to match a disk offset. I wouldn't think too many people using after market axles would be using a drum.
Then they just need cutting to length.
The supplier should be able to fill you in on what needs to be done.
As Norm said the more dish the better but big dish will need the housing cut down.
No matter what you do its going to take some time to work it out.
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Great, thanks for the assistance. Have a good idea on where to start now so will map out a few things and will update here once done. In fact, best I upload some photos sometime soon.
Just having a look in the engine bay looks like my NF radiator isn't going to fit - what radiator do people have experience in fitting for a V8 TE? PWR seems mighty pricey for just a weekend cruiser...
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I have a Pwr in the corty behind a 1uzfe. I use a procool which is procomp chinese made from ebay behind the xr8 cortina. But i still have my original 6cyl rad that i got a 3core guts fitted to about 12yrs ago just as a spare.
I heard bad things about a triple pass aussie desert cooler they said it was restricted but i have never owned any to find out.
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Hmmm, well here is what I was quoted from PWR - let me know if there is anything here that looks outta whack:
1. Custom FORD CORTINA TE -TF 75-81
55mm Radiator , in-tank auto cooler , Spal
shroud mounts , thermo switch boss $1039.50
2. PWR Fan Shroud $165
3. SPAL 16" Fan skew blade 2000CFM 88mm $297
4. Thermo Switch 80-85 (2wires) $66
5. Radiator Cap Large 21-25 PSI No Lever $27.50
6. PWR Large billet cap cover - Red $22
Thought I'd lay it all out here in case someone else reads this and has the same thoughts - I'm inexperienced here but I have had some custom radiators made before, nothing like this (price wise) though. BUt again, don't know if it's reasonable and they are a reputable company.
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Holy crapman thats expensive.
I've had the Pwr for about 8yrs i got it from the Brisbane hotrod show.
There was a ford display with some pwr stuff and on the last day they were flogging off all the display stock. Im sure it was $750 complete rad shroud and fan.
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only thing i dont like about pwr is that they're a throwaway item and cant be repaired should anything ever happen in a few years time. there is a mob here in perth called brown's radiators who make the best stuff around. i paid around the grand mark for a alloy rad for my v8 tc a few years back.
all the other stuff in your list is a little on the pricey side but still close. they're all full retail prices. $27 for a radiator cap though??? they're like $5. if you look in the right places you can get a fan for just under $200. the other stuff is hard to say without knowing what they're using.