fordcortina.com.au
Tuning & Tech Center => Technical/Mechanical - sponsored by myrackbiz.com => Topic started by: petrjanda on June 11, 2016, 04:56:02 PM
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Do I need to cut into the hump even if I get the mustang tail shafts housing? This on a tf
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Short answer yes.
I looked at fitting a t5 without cutting by moving the motor forward about 25mm some info below. This was without a sump fitted so in not sure if the sump will touch the x member http://fordcortina.com.au/newforum/index.php?topic=1149.15 (http://fordcortina.com.au/newforum/index.php?topic=1149.15)
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Do you think if I cut all the way to the top edge of the hump it will fit? It's about 2-3cm. Have you considered doing something with the shifter linkage? Like an L shaped stick
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No you will need to cut the back of the hump off. It only just fits inside the hump when the engine is moved forward 25mm.
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This is a picture of a falcon t5 next to a mustang extension housing (http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/winton5/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2016-06-12-18-54-02.png) (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/winton5/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2016-06-12-18-54-02.png.html)
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Looks like I'm going to modify the mustang housing. Cut out the shifter box and move it approx 2" forward. Then weld it all together.
This page gave me the idea.
http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?3,31147 (http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?3,31147)
My only concern at this stage is the location of the speedo sender hole on the mustang housing.
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Wow. Ok thats a radical bit of engineering.
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Yeah but then i'll avoid cutting the hump altogether. I just bought a mustang tail housing on ebay for $80 USD, plus $45 shipping.
If you are interested in following this build, I'm on Facebook under my group Aussie Ford Cortina. I don't post every day but usually 1-2 times a week when I have some worthy updates. Feel free to post about your Corty's too.
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Never thought of doing it like that. I wouldn't cut up a mustang housing to that.
Facebook is our enemy.
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Well that's where I'll be doing it differently. the idea is to actually move the shifter box 2" forward. Not create a 2nd one like the guy did.
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Keen to see pictures of how you do it.
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Yeah probably will be couple of weeks before I get it, then draw it up and cut it up. Probably give i5 to my machinist to do.
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I think an issue you may have is making sure the gears line up with the gate. The guy that did it in the thread you posted left it in its orignal position eliminating the guess work. Moving the whole thing forward you will have to make sure its all spot on.
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Yeah I'm sure there's gonna be a couple of hmm along the way but I think it's possible. Main thing will be the cuts have to be precise.
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Facebook is our enemy.
Yep....
Bucster
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Facebook :aug2 :lol:
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Do you think if I cut all the way to the top edge of the hump it will fit? It's about 2-3cm. Have you considered doing something with the shifter linkage? Like an L shaped stick
Hey mate,
I finally received the mustang housing and i'm taking some measurements. The gearbox mount with the mustang tail housing sits 14.5" from the front of the transmission case. I found some single rail specs on the net and it's gearbox mount is 15.8" from the front of the single rail case.
My single rail used to sit on the rear cross-member holes so I need to drill new holes approx 1.3" to the front of the rear holes. Is that what you have found too?
I measured the falcon housing out of curiosity and that one would need new holes(the mount is 17.5" from the front of the transmission case) likewise but they would be on the edge of the cross-member.
If my measurements are correct I should be able to modify the shifter linkage and the mustang housing in such way that i will not actually need to cut all that much into it.
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When I fitted the t5 with mustang housing I fitted the box through the front holes in the xmember . Using the front holes as I guide I then modified the engine mounts to sit it all in that position.
I think other guys have used faclon xmembers not sure if its a straight bolt in and others have modified the corty xmember.
From memory there wasn't much room between the hump and the box when I looked at fitting the t5. If you are leaving the engine in its original position you will have to cut the hump unless you are cutting off the end of that box the shifter bolts to when modifying the shifter position as you described .
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I test fitted the housing on the front cross-member holes and the shifter came dead centre in the hole. Did you find that also? Asking because from the photos you posted in the other thread your shifter doesnt look centre.
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No. As in pictures. Front holes in xmember, shifter to rear of hump.
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Ok so that means different cross-members. Interesting. Was yours a manual or auto originally? My was an auto, which was converted to 4 speed.
I don't have my engine at the moment so i can't take measurements. Would you be able to measure distance from (left or right) engine mount to the bell housing for me?
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Im thinking different extension housing. My corty is originally manual but I don't think there is a difference. There's a difference between 4 and 6.
Center of chassis engine mount to rear of engine where it meets the bell is 365mm.
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Thanks for the measurement. Would you be able to measure it from one of the bolts that attach the mount to the block?
Do you mean different T5 extension housing? As in my one is different to yours?
From what I've gathered so far the front holes were used for the 3-speed auto while the rear holes for the 4-speed manual.
Also you dont have a single rail gearbox for the cortina on hand by any chance? Looking for a measurement from the front of the tranny case to the centre of the rear mount to verify the specs i got online are correct. (15.8")
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Think I worked out how to move the shifter without even cutting into the housing. I can reverse the shifter which moves it 45mm forward. I'm going to have the shifter block underneath machined to take the shifter ball and then weld an extension to it which attaches to the shaft that goes into the gearbox (have that one shortened and drilled for the roll pin to suit). All I need to do is open up the front of the shifter box(maybe with a belt sander) which exposes the shaft and the aforementioned extension. I test fitted it after drilling new holes into the cross-member and it works fine.
However it seems like moving the shifter will be the easy part. While test fitting I noticed that the shifter box AND the shifter guide are tilted away from the driver (naturally for a left hand drive vehicle like in the USA), but it would be unnatural for a right hand drive with the stick pointing away from the driver. I'm going to have to work out how to level it or even tilt it the other way. I'm afraid this will require making a new shifter box and an adjustment to the shifter guide.
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By different extension housing I mean maybe the one I had and the one you have have the x.member mounts in a different position. I don't think the one I had leaned towards the left .
I don't have a 4 speed.
I can't take the other measurement. I'll do it sometime during the week.
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Yeah you can only see it when looking from the rear along the output shaft axis.
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Measurement from the rear block mount hole is 345mm to the rear of the engine where it meets the bell.
Not sure how you're going to use that measurement unless you have the block mounts fitted to the chassis mounts without an engine fitted. I took the first measurement from the center of the chassis mount thinking it would be the best spot since you had on engine fitted .
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Ive got the mounts not the engine(it's at a machine shop getting finnished). Wasn't sure what measurement you gave me the first time. Just wanna work out if the new holes i made for the ext. housing are correct so a measurement closest to the centreline of the engine is what I needed. Thanks a lot!
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Just measured it and my new holes are within a few mm correct. That's good. Just need to get the shifter block from my machinist now.