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Read-only historical archive.
Browse the preserved forum and gallery. Registration, login, uploads and account changes are no longer available.

Read-only historical archive.
Browse the preserved forum and gallery. Registration, login, uploads and account changes are no longer available.
October 17, 2026, 04:28:57 AM

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[XMAN]

Ive been searching   and cant find it , damn

[TE_JET]

Dave can you please authorise this thread to be posted.

[Admin]

Ok, Guys. It''s been approved and the intro will show on the front page underneath Norm,s Clear indicator advertisement, the rest of the instructions and pictures are below.
Azza try and include some pics to show some detail or parts etc.

 

[TE_JET]

Before I continue, you will need to purchase the following:
* Pair XW -XB 1 piece Hub Disc Rotors (ABS Brake Centre carry these in stock $75 ea approx, Protex p/n DR106 )
* Pair WB Statesman or HQ 1 tonner or HZ, Front disc calipers (Wrecking yard, or new from a ABS Brake centre $50 pair s/h)
* Bearings/seals (2x ea); Local Bearing store
   * Timken p/n #LM67010/49 (Inner) $10.45ea
   * Timken p/n #LM11910/48 (Outer) $7.68ea
   * Timken p/n #C6099 (oil seal) $2.38ea

*** Please note all parts prices are as listed in Geelong Victoria***
*** Also note that the brake booster unit WILL function safely with this modification, however the pedal will feel heavier when applying the brakes. It is recommended that upgrading the booster be considered. If you require this then CONSULT YOUR LOCAL BRAKES SPECIALIST for booster modifications***

In Addition, you will need to fabricate a PAIR of brackets, or i can supply the brackets and bolts if required. $50 +postage. Send me a pm for more details.

This modification should take approximately 2-3hrs to complete and brake lines MUST ONLY BE FITTED BY AUTHORISED PERSONEL.

*** Note the photo''s have also been added into the "How To''s" gallery album and numbered accordingly, they can be accessed via this link. http://fordcortina.com.au/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=130  ***


Pic# 1 - Shows the bare stub axle ready for installation. Install the bearing shell for the inner bearing onto the stub axle.


Pic#2 - XW-XB 1 piece Rotor and hub assembly


Pic#3 - Caliper attachment bracket


Pic#4 - WB-HZ Front brake calipers with newer pads fitted


Pic#5 - Inner bearing fitted to hub assembly and oil seal also fitted


Pic#6 - Shown stub axle with Caliper attachment bracket fitted


Pic#7 - Outer bearing packed with grese prior installment


Pic#8 - Dics hub fitted to stub axle. ***Reminder when tightening up the fastening nut, ensure the nut is firm, then back it off 1/4 turn. The rotor should spin freely, and not have any sideways movement***


Pic#9A - WB-HZ Calipers fitted onto bracket, showing position.


Pic#9B - Stainless brake lines, fitted by a brake specialist to match up the Wb-Hz calipers to the cortina brake lines.



*** Note that you may have to get a brake specialist to modify your brake booster, if you feel the brakes are too heavy to apply***

<font>**** I have laser cut caliper mounting brackets if you require them, they all have the holes drilled and tapped, and are ready to mount. The bolts can also be supplied upon request****</font>

Good luck
Azza

[mlowe]

Hi Guys,

Just joined, great site.  Thanks Raptor for going to the trouble of sharing this info.  New to cortinas and this info from those who have been there and done it takes a lot of stress and BS out of it.

In the process of coverting a TC to run a 331 windsor done up as a sleeper.

Cheers,

[XMAN]

Any mods to the hubs required ?  I suppose you would off mentioned something like that.

[azz80]

Hi guys,

new to the site also. great notes on the brake upgrade. A few questions though:
1. on the how to section you labelled the photos as xf calipers and different disc rotors
2. are the brackets required the same as the castlemaine rod shop kit brackets as i already have these.

thanks for the info

Aaron

[tf windsor corty]

how are you aaron have tried  your set up disk is still rubbing on stub axle . did you use a spacer behinde the bearing so that it dosnt fowl on the stub any info would be good cheers anthony

[Admin]

Hi Guys and welcome to the website.
 Regarding the pic''s in the How To section, i was supposed to change the wording to the same as the instructions as detailed in the forums. But copious amounts of alcohol clouded my actions and i just plain forgot. DOAH.
Regarding the hub hitting on the stub axle im unsure about that, but i will ask Azza to respond asap.

Bucster
 

[TE_JET]

HI there,

Azz80, yeah, the brackets are very similiar to the CRS ones, however, MINE ACTUALLY FIT. Dont know if your have had much experience with their products, but nothing from them fits, without modification. They have a VERY POOR REPUTATION, ask anybody around they all will tell you.

tfwindsor, that hub WILL go straight on. I can guarantee that. I have done a conversion recently and i had no problems at all. Did the brake place give you the correcvt disc/hub, as there is another that is very similiar with only a "h" or something behind the part number. After you informed me of this, I took my disc/hub into ABS brake center in Geelong, and had them confirm that it is the same part. Just to confirm. PROTEX p/n DR106 (XW-XB). or old listing is DBA106.

[corty351w]

I done this conversion to my te about 8 years ago using the CRS bracket and had no problems. But i do remember that the hub has to be machined for this conversion to work. The disc has to be split from the hub and the back of the hub machined so the disc sits outboard more to clear the stub axle. Also shorter wheel studs need to be used to compensate for the machined hub. Im 99% sure that a DBA106 is the disc only with no hub. I still have the original instructions and drawings from CRS that came with bracket which i can post if any one wants them.

[sleepercorty]

i have done this conversion on past cars as well and had the same problem with the disc rubbing on the lower control arm/ball joint i had to grind a little of the bottom control arm only problem is there isnt must there that you can grind off.
any pics arron of how much clearance your rotor has.
the difference in the part number is dba106 is a hat style rotor has sepperate hub, dba106h is a hub style rotor the rotor and hub are one piece. im pretty sure that after xb they went to the dba106h but will check at work tomorrow

[sleepercorty]

i just found an online catalogue dba 106 is hat type xw-xb dba106h is xw-xb also one has a height of 75mm and other is 58.5mm. the hat type is 58.5 but you have to compensate for the extra height of the hub im just not sure if the hub would be 16.5mm thick thought it would be more around 10-12mm. so once on the hub there might be an extra couple of mm clearance. if anyone has the hat type with sepperate hub any chance you could measure how thick hub is. arron you hub looks like the rotor will seperate from it? is that correct

[tf windsor corty]

thanks aaron machining the hub 9mm did the trick  

[XMAN]

So can you work out a total and sell them in packs. Buyer beware.
send me the total with brake lines included.  Put your part organizing fee on top of your wholesale part price and put out a diy package. Buyer beware.