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October 16, 2026, 01:03:54 PM

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[BigNorm]

There are several different methods available on the market now to upgrade the front brakes to a larger vented disc and thus converting to a Falcon 5 stud pattern.

This is one of the methods available using the Castlemaine Rodshop conversion kit. I didnt buy the kit new so I'm not 100% familiar with whats contained or thier actual instrutions for fitting but this my take on it.

I did this on a TC Sedan on my back driveway at home. This is for educational purposes only and to serve as a display. If you're unsure of what you're doing then dont do it.

Tools Required:
1 x decent trolley jack
2 x jack stands
1 x wheel brace or rattle gun.
1 x hammer
1 x small chisel
1 x side cutters
17, 19, 21mm 1/2" drive sockets
1 x 13mm pipe spanner
1 x line locker
1 x 12" shifter
17, 19, 22 ring spanners
1 x ball joint splitter(personal choice)
1 x 7/16", 9/16" spanner

Time Taken: approx 60 minutes from start to finish.



This is the kit how i recieved it, two XW 2 piece disc rotors and two modified stub axles with caliper adaptor plates.

What wasnt included were the brake hoses nor calipers. Brake calipers are Holden HX items and I had the brake hoses custom made. If you need to get hoses made they are:
550mm long, with a MM02 fitting on one end and a 3/8 x 28 squared flange nut on the other.



Step 1:

Raise the vehicle and set it upon jack stands. If you dont have a rattle gun crack the wheel nuts before you raise the vehicle.

Step 2:



Take the wheel off.

Step 3:

Disconnect the brake line from the caliper. Knock back the locking tabs on the caliper mounting bolts and remove the brake caliper.



Step 4:

Undo the tie rod end nut and either using a ball joint splitter or a large hammer, seperate the joint.

Step 5:


Unpin* and undo the top and bottom balljoint nuts. Provided the shock absorber is still fitted you should be able to do this safely without the lower control arm responding to unleashed srping pressure once the nut is undone. Dont undo the lower nut if there is no shock absorber fitted. Using the balljoint splitter of big hammer again, seperate both joints.
*Nyloc nuts show in pic so not pinned.

Step 6:


The stub axle should then lift out.


Step 7:

Fit the new stub axle, pinning all three ball joint nuts.

Step 8:

This is where I get fussy, some might say it's overkill but this is how I do it.  dont remove the wheel bearing out of thier packets until you are ready to pack them with grease. Using a suitable bearing packer(including by hand) pack all the bearings thoroughly with a high temperature bearing grease. These pics show a Snap-On bearing packer which is so far the only one I've seen which is equivilant to or better than packing it them by hand. It's important that the grease comes out the tops of the race and rollers.
 


Bearings packed, thick smear around the outside.


Here's where my opinion differs from some. I pack the disc hub also with only the space remaining for the stub axle to fit through. Some say this is overkill and "overpacking" the bearings. The reason I do this is the share the heat from the disc/hub across the whole stub axle and not just across two bearings.



with bearing and hub seal fitted.

Step 9:

Fit the disc to the stub axle, fit the outer bearing, set the preload and split pin it.

Step 10:

Bolt the caliper to the adaptor plate.

Step 11:

Bolt up the brake pad carrier. I use a little bit of Loctite 242 thread locker on all caliper bolts. Connect up the brake hose and bleed the brakes.



Put the wheel back on and your away.

[en4sa]

I have recently done this conversion the new CRS kits does not require two piece rotors .I used xf rotors and had the centre machined so the outside bearing sits approx 10mm in further also if using the later hz alloy calipers requires new lines as the threads are different and neither hose is long enough and requires brackets to be fabricated to hold the hoses away from the suspension in my opinion use the cast calipers.

[CortinaD]

I have recently done this conversion the new CRS kits does not require two piece rotors .I used xf rotors and had the centre machined so the outside bearing sits approx 10mm in further also if using the later hz alloy calipers requires new lines as the threads are different and neither hose is long enough and requires brackets to be fabricated to hold the hoses away from the suspension in my opinion use the cast calipers.

Sup Dave? Welcome

[te cortina]

hey mate im trying to do this conversion at the moment and having trouble with the back of the rotor hitting the stub axle on the part where the tie rod end goes in is there any machinimg needed to fit the rotor to the hub axle or any spacers under the back bearing or ???? thanks mate

[BigNorm]

i didnt have that problem but i have heard of other ppl having the machine the hub to make it fit. couldnt tell you where or how much though. you are using the xw two-piece rotor?

[te cortina]

hey mate i first brought xa xb 1 peace rotor then brought a 1peace xw rotor basted off the 2 peace one but still the same problem i noticed in the pics u put up looks like a peace of metle on the hub to make it thicker??

[Tils]

I had to have 9mm taken off the back of the hub on mine. After that it was all apples.

[BigNorm]

yeah looks like a couple of spacers on there. i dont have the car anymore to check.  thats how the kit arrived. i didnt make or modify anything. i have the photos in hi-res still so i'll have a look and see if i can find the bearing numbers. i'm led to belive they are std falcon wheel bearings.

[te cortina]

o ok i got the bearing but i do need the part number for the seal on the back if u still have the number still? and who did u buy the kit off? thanks mate

 hey dude when u say u took 9mm off the hub what part of the hub was it??? that u had to take it off of thanks dude

[sooty302]

when you use the crs set up with the 2 piece hub you need to separate the hub and rotor, get 10mm (from memory?) machined off the back of the hub where the rotor sits against it, then assemble it again using the new wheel studs that come with the kit. they press in and hold the whole assembly together.  with the heat shrink collars put on the stub axle you then just use the standard bearings and seals for the model of car the rotor came off.

[te cortina]

o ok now i understand i was just looking at that in some of the pics that people havve posted and some of the hubs on ebay and noticed the gab was missing on the pics people have posted so i have to buy a crs kit? to get the studs im guessing thanks for that mate i was really stressing about it a